ok i put in the longtubes but now have those hoses for the air layin around. i think theres 2 up front (rubber) that went to both driver and passenger side and looks like a hard flexable brass one in the back that came off the passenger side header. i heard that i need egr block off plates. someone point me in the right direction? I should have my ypipe by the end of the week and would like to be done with the exhaust. thanks
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I'm assuming your long tubes have no connections, and you are trying to block off the source of the AIR (front connections on the stock manifolds) and the EGR (rear connection on the passenger side.
All you really need is a single diamond shaped plate to block off the connection on the back of the intake manifold where the EGR riser tube connects. You can leave the EGR valve in place, but it makes more sense to remove it, and get a blanking plate for that as well. Good source:
http://www.sjmmanufacturing.com/
You can remove the EGR vacuum solenoid as well, and the vacuum line. You just need to put a small vacuum cap on the nipple on the driver's side of the intake manifold where the EGR vacuum line connects.
Shoebox has the best references, as usual:
http://shbox.com/1/egr1.jpg
You need to have the codes for deleting the solenoid, and for no EGR flow programmed out of the PCM, or you will be staring at the brightly illuminated SES light.
As far as the AIR system is concerned, You really don't need to do anything. But you can get rid of the complete system. There is a 5/8" (?) hose that connects to the ram air box, and runs to the AIR pump. Remove that hose, and put a vacuum cap on the nipple on the air box.
Then you can unbolt the bracket for the pump and remove it. Unplug is and tape up the connector. There are also vacuum lines involved - depends on whether your car had the "AIR pump recall". Any line you remove fro the vacuum source requires that you put a cap on the vacuum connection.
The pipes that run from the pump to the manifolds are a bit of a PITA to remove. Easiest way is to cut the tube that crosses over to the passenger side right under the timing cover.
Again... you will have codes. You get one for the pump being missing, and the PCM tries to cycle the pump and look at the O2 sensors for signs of air being injected. All these diagnostic codes need to be programmed out.
Again, Shoebox has you covered:
http://shbox.com/1/air_pump_recall.jpgFred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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well ypipe should be here soon. some people have said that im running ritch and its dumping alot of fuel. how do i get it to stop that? is it cause the egr is still hooked up of cause i dont have the o2 sensors in there anymore? is this gonna stay that way? i could care less about staring at the SES light but id rather it run a little better? oh yeah, were can i get the gaskets that go in between the flanges at the ypipe, header? thanks for the help.
97 ws6 6sp 40k miles 355 cubes strange s 60 rear 373 gears. other stuff! 360rwhp
current
2006 GMC Denali 6.0 AWD!!!! hers
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I just hope Delaware doesn't have a "visual" inspection like NJ.
Just came back from the MVC yesterday...they looked under the hood of my Vibe.
When I asked what they were looking for...they said, "just anything out of the ordinary".
I had to leave my EGR and all emissions hooked up under the hood on my Bird. Didn't want to deal with any issues...as the smog Nazis are always changing the rules and getting more stringent.
I've yet to test the change of going from two to one cat. Hopefully, they never notice as I tried to keep everything looking OEM as best possible.Al 96 Ram Air T/A
Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio
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Originally posted by thomaswell ypipe should be here soon. some people have said that im running ritch and its dumping alot of fuel. how do i get it to stop that? is it cause the egr is still hooked up of cause i dont have the o2 sensors in there anymore? is this gonna stay that way? i could care less about staring at the SES light but id rather it run a little better? oh yeah, were can i get the gaskets that go in between the flanges at the ypipe, header? thanks for the help.
If you aren't running O2 sensors at all, who knows how the PCM is fueling the engine. If it doesn't have sensors, its going to run in open loop, and there is no way for the PCM to correct the A/F ratio.
Run too rich and you can wash the lubrication off the cylinder walls and damage the engine.
Running rich doesn't have anything to do with the EGR valve, unless its actually operating without a blockoff plate on the connection for the riser tube. In that case, without the O2 sensors being installed, it would be running lean, since it would be flowing air into the intake manifold, rather than exhaust gas.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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